In my opinion, in every place in Macedonia (and beyond), you can find a treasure. And that treasure is people.
That’s why I’ve initiated a series that will answer the question: “Whom to meet in…?” In this series, I will introduce places through Beautiful People and encourage you to meet them, take a moment to talk, and truly listen.
Demir Hisar: The Iron City and Its Queen
Demir Hisar is a town located between the well-known travel destinations of Kruševo and Bitola. However, its position slightly off the main tourist route means that few travelers take the time to stop here. The town owes its name to the surrounding iron-rich mountains (hisar meaning iron, demir meaning gate in Turkish).
And so, where there are Iron Gates, perhaps there’s also a fortress and a kingdom?
Actually, yes. There is a kingdom. The Kingdom of Alexandra Lozanovska.
Bavcha – A Testament to Care and Dedication
The Iron City boasts its own Iron Lady. Alexandra is the kind of woman who, even if she disagrees with you, will listen attentively—only to then do things her own way. Determined, hardworking, and energetic, she naturally takes the lead in any group she finds herself in—even if it’s just about organizing seats at a table. Yet, her passion and humor make you listen. Listen with fascination as she talks about her eco-friendly irrigation system and tobacco cultivation.
Because Alexandra is a brand of her own—hidden behind the name Moja Bavcha. I could simply translate it to My (Moja) garden (bavcha). But like in many cases, Macedonians have two words for what seems like one thing: bavcha and gradina.
A bavcha feels more… intimate, private, tended with great care and devotion—always with homegrown tomatoes, peppers, maybe zucchini. If someone takes the time to nurture their garden daily, it’s a bavcha. If they just plant flowers and rely on an automatic sprinkler, it’s a gradina.
Family Comes First!
Not only did the name Moja Bavcha come naturally to Alexandra, but so did her entire entrepreneurial journey.
In both her home bavcha and her organic field outside the city, Alexandra never uses chemical pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. She acknowledges that avoiding pesticides results in smaller yields, slower growth, and significantly more labor, but for her, quantity has never been the priority.
From the very beginning, she followed the rule: “Family comes first.” And she still follows it today—she first fills her family’s pantry so that her husband, children, and closest friends can eat healthily. Only what remains goes up for sale.
As she says, this approach has preserved a sense of peace, relaxation, and balance in the Lozanovski household. It’s no surprise that Alexandra is a true ambassador of Slow Food Macedonia, which she proudly represents. Because only in a slow, mindful atmosphere — not in the rush of quick tastings —can you fully appreciate the journey from seed to table.
Far from Tourist Brochures: A Pepper Kingdom
Alexandra’s kingdom is a kingdom of peppers. I had long known that Macedonia’s pepper creativity far surpasses that of Hungary, but it was only at Alexandra’s that I realized how little I actually knew.
When her pepper-based spreads appear on the table, it’s impossible to pick just one favorite. Different textures, ingredient combinations, levels of spiciness… But that’s just the beginning!
If you attend a royal tasting at the Lozanovski household, you’ll embark on a journey through forgotten Macedonian recipes—culinary treasures passed down from Alexandra’s mother and grandmother, as well as gathered from neighbors. You won’t find these dishes in restaurants, and many households have already lost their original versions.
At Alexandra’s table, you’ll find not only the familiar sarma and ajvar but also: pepper chips with polenta, sorrel soup with two different types of sorrel (don’t ask me which—I gave up on botanical terms!), pumpkin purée, creamy and delicate as mousse, zelnik (Macedonian layered pie), turšija (pickled vegetables), and so on…
These dishes are deeply rooted in Macedonian tradition, yet you won’t find them in guidebooks, tourist brochures, or tasting menus.
A Smoke Break (With a Homegrown Twist)
Does a hostess who grows almost everything herself ever go to the store?Well, she certainly doesn’t need Target or any supermarket chain.
Her bavcha provides her with most vegetables, fruits, herbs, and teas (in Macedonia, herbal teas are much more popular than black tea in bags). If she needs vinegar, she gathers wild apples from the forest. She sources milk, dairy, eggs, and flour directly from local farmers. The only things she buys at a store are oil, salt, sugar, and occasionally bananas or oranges.
Like any proper Macedonian pantry, the Lozanovski cellar is well stocked with homemade rakija, wine, liqueurs, and even organic cosmetics! But there’s one more thing that makes a trip outside the city with Alexandra worthwhile.
There, you’ll see how tobacco grows. Alexandra will explain what defines high-quality leaves, how they are harvested, and how much tobacco can be obtained from a single plant. And then, back at her pepper kingdom, you’ll see tobacco leaves drying in the bavcha. On special request, Alexandra’s husband hand-rolls a cigarette from pure tobacco—of course, without any additives or chemicals!
Sometimes, It’s Worth the Prick of a Thorn
Moja Bavcha never actively sought tourism. Tourism found her. You know how top sports teams recruit young talents? They send scouts to tournaments, who observe and select the most promising players. That’s exactly what happened with Alexandra.
For years, she has been part of Slow Food Macedonia, regularly participating in fairs and events, earning awards and recognition for her products. And it was at one of these fairs that she was noticed. She won people over not just with the exceptional taste of her products but also with her personality, knowledge, and storytelling skills.
I asked Alexandra: If you had to represent your personality through one of your products, what would it be and why?
She thought for a moment and answered:
„I would be blackberry slatko.”
A blackberry’s root system is deep and strong, making it drought-resistant and resilient. But its stem is thorny, making it difficult to harvest. At the same time, blackberries are rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and magnesium.
„Yes, picking them isn’t easy—you might scratch your hands. Preparing them takes effort and patience. But in the end, you get a portion of health and pleasure!”
Which means… sometimes it’s worth risking a little prick to reach the sweetness!
Want to Visit Alexandra’s Kingdom of Peppers, Flavors, and Relaxation?
Nothing could be easier! You can join me on a trip or visit Alexandra on your own — just book an appointment in advance.
Alexandra’s kingdom is located in Demir Hisar, just 30 minutes from Bitola and 1.5 hours from Ohrid.
You can follow Alexandra on Facebook and Instagram!